Litchfield National Park

We stocked up on supplies at the Batchelor supermarket and had lunch at the pub. Then headed into the park. Litchfield is only 90km or so from Darwin so it can get very busy. Certainly at some of the more popular spots it was pretty crowded and not as nice. We learned to wait until later in the day after 4pm because the day trip tours had to leave by then to get back to Darwin in time which thinned the numbers a quite bit. There were still lots of backpackers in whizzbangs (Apollo campers with sliding doors that are forever being opened and closed - whizz-bang!)

Litchfield is absolutely beautiful. We decided to stay just outside the national park at the Litchfield Safari Camp. The owners there were very pleasant and the sites were nice and grassy whilst still close to everything in the park. We decided to base ourselves here rather than move around to different parts of the park which in the end worked better for us.

After setting up we visited the Cascades which was only a few kms from camp. Again we were spoilt as there was no-one there when we arrived after the 2km walk in. We had a very cleansing swim. While the kids explored Maria and I just sat under the waterfall getting a good massage. Very therapeutic!

The Cascades

The next day was exploring the park. First stop was Tolmer falls which is a lookout through one of the gorges cut through the bush. It would be really spectacular in the wet season I would expect. Next was the Buley Rockholes for a swim. It was packed but is over a large area so we still had a nice time there. It's basically a series of cascading small waterfalls into various swimming holes of varying depths.

We then drove to the carpark near Florence Falls and had lunch by the creek which was nice. Florence Falls is amazing however it was just too busy for us to enjoy it. We tried but it was too full of people. Some were taking crazy risks leaping off the top of the falls as well. We'd had enough quickly and drove back to camp. We waited till about 4.30 then drove out to Wangi falls which is probably the most famous. It was great as the majority of the crowds had left and we could enjoy it much more. It was really peaceful and beautiful but again, the falls were only a trickle. Some of the photos on the noticeboard of the wet season were pretty awesome though.

The next day was very exciting as it was Caitlin's birthday!!! Yay. We had organised ourselves for a day of adventure tackling the famous Reynolds River Track. With Cinnamon Tea birthday cake, lunch and drinks we were off!

Entrance to the track

First stop was Blyth Homestead. This was the home of the Seargent family who worked in the Mt Tolmer tin mine. It is really well preserved with a scrapbook about the families history which is really fascinating. From the hardships they endured to Max the 10 year olds pet crocodile.

This is how you build a house son…

Giant termite mound opposite the homestead

From there we went to Shady Creek. It was really pretty here with a lovely walk through peach scented woodland on white sand to a beautiful waterhole with a small waterfall. The kids really enjoyed jumping off a small ledge into the deep water. We had Caitlin's birthday cake here.

The birthday girl! 10 OMG!

Next stop was Surprise Creek Falls which we were really excited about for a few reasons. The drive there was amazing. Sandy track, open plains with incredible magnetic termite mounds and lots of creek crossings including the Reynolds River which was challenging.

One of the tricky water crossings. A bit hard to tell how deep!

All the mounds point to magnetic north. There are giant fields of them. It looks like an ancient cemetery with creepy headstones as far as the eye can see. When we arrived at Surprise Creek it was really hot so we pulled out the awning and ate a quick lunch as we were all eager for a swim. Surprise Creek Falls are really the hidden gem of Litchfield. They are relatively free of backpackers as it's a serious 4WD track however as we came out of crossing the Reynolds River a French family was on the other side drying out their Britz hire 4WD. They'd been stuck in the middle of the creek for 2 hours and had just been towed out by another car.

Magnetic termite mounds

At Surprise creek we only had 2 other couples there. Incredibly one of which I knew from my Everyday Hero days. Madeline used to work at CARE Australia and the Mater Foundation. I'd hate to think of the odds. There were two large crystal clear pools above the main waterhole. You could swim and climb into both. It was so refreshing and we spent a great afternoon there. The kids just had a ball and Caitlin couldn't think of a better way to spend her birthday.

The drive back up the track seemed more peaceful and easier somehow but no less striking. And it was even a little quicker. The french family was gone so we only assume they made it back across the river.

Cannonball!!!

We finished the day back at camp with Caitlins' favourite, Butter chicken with papadams for dinner made in the Thermomick. Just a great day. Tarnished a little bit by the French couple having a D&M right out the front of our camper till I finally chased them off at 1am only to be followed by someone outside the park blaring out really bad country music till about 7am!!! Aarrgh!

Litchfield is certainly an amazing place with some truly wonderful spots to see. If you're smart you can avoid the crowds to some degree and still enjoy the peaceful beauty of the place. The Reynolds River Track is a fun 4WD adventure and great way to see some of the more unspoilt areas of the park. Next stop is Darwin for a few days to recharge while Maria heads to Sydney for her mom's 80th birthday.