The drive from Coober Pedy to Port Augusta on the tip of the Spencer Gulf is about 450km and took us about 6 hours including stops. It was so easy driving on bitumen again we forgot 100km takes an hour, not two, so we drove the whole way quite comfortably. The kids were great reading Kindles for most of the trip. They are all reading the Harry Potter series for the umpteenth time which really helps on long treks.
Port Augusta had everything we needed to restock and the 2 days there gave everyone the chance to catch up on emails, schoolwork and of course blogs. We also were finally able to arrange for a cover for our gas hot water system to be sent ahead of us to Fowlers Bay. It fell off somewhere between Wilpena and Arkaroola we think. The cornflakes packet and tape did the trick for travelling in the interim. We had to boil all of the water however as we didn't have enough tape.
Nutritional AND functional
Big thanks to Peter at Caravan and RV Spares at Burpengary who organised everything and was only too happy to help. No thanks at all to our camper manufacturer Goldstream and SA distributor who didn't want to know really. So much for post sales service. Our original plan was to head over to Streaky Bay across the Eyre Peninsula from Port Augusta. However we came across a little known place that for some reason appealed to us. No offence to Streaky Bay which did seem really nice when we passed through, but we really wanted to get away from a town and do some camping away from the crowds. We found our answer in Sceale Bay (pronounced Scale) which is 17km south of Streaky Bay. It's a sleepy little fishing village that according to the locals is busy for about 2 weeks a year and that's just how they like it. Sceale Bay has some famous surfing breaks in particular, The Granites and many surfers hire holiday homes in search of the perfect wave. We stayed at the Sceale Bay Bush Camp. It's a very simple setup with big dirt sites, pit fires well secluded from each other with a single plumbed toilet and bore water cold shower. This is basic camping but it's just perfect and you wouldn't change a thing.
Point Labatt
Peter the host and Ben the caretaker were so friendly and warm, they made us feel right at home. Mention you are a fisherman to Pete and he will direct you to some of the most beautiful beaches, coves and fishing spots on the planet. He'll even sell you some bait from his personal store if you're polite. We got to bed early that night as we were tired from a long day on the road and were eager to explore some of the spots Peter had described to us. The next day dawned a little cloudy and a bit windy. Undeterred, we first picked up some bait from Pete. King George Whiting was the target species for the next few days so cockles were the bait of choice. Depending on which state you are from they are also known as Pippies or Ugaries. Initially we travelled 17km south to a sea lion colony at Point Labatt. We all loved looking down watching the sea lions. Massive males overlooking their harems, young pups swimming in the shallow pools and a couple of young males play-fighting in the surf. We counted about 50 all up. The road in was a bit corrugated but well worth the effort.
Shell Beach
Now for some fishing at a secret spot called Grunters. Following some cryptic but detailed instructions drawn in the sand the previous night. We'd never seen anything quite like it. Turn left at the water tank, over the cattle grid to the left, take the left fork and follow your nose. We eventually came to a sort of parking lot with an overgrown walking track which we followed. After about 500m we came to a cliff, down a goat track and we were on the beach in a secluded cove looking out over the southern ocean. No KGW, but what a magic spot. The kids called it Shell Beach as the most perfect and intact shells of all shapes and sizes are on the beach. After a couple of hours we headed back to camp for a late lunch then onto secret spot number 2. Sceale Bay beach. This beach is on the calm bay side and goes for 15km in a crescent shape right up to Streaky Bay. You can take your vehicle onto the beach but only at low tide as the sand is extremely soft for about 12 of the 15km. As instructed I cast out right in front of the buoys and SUCCESS! Second cast, a 32cm King George Whiting.
Target species acquired!
Not a bad way to end the day. Sceale Bay Sunset.
Unfortunately that was it for a while as happens with fishing. I managed to get one more so no fish for dinner. We did clean them and put them straight in the Engel for safe keeping. What a wonderful day. We finished off with a glass of Barossa Semillion watching the sunset. Back at camp we promptly informed Pete we were staying another day as we hadn't caught a feed of KGW and we still had Heart Bay to explore.
Everyone was keen to get going the next morning so we rose early, packed the Prado and headed off with more cryptic directions. Turn left at the phone box, through the paddock gate and follow the high track. Nervously we came to a headland with no apparent way forward and were greeted by Heart Bay. Oh my goodness, we all stood on the cliff top looking down speechless. The beach naturally meets in the middle forming a 'heart'. The locals I think prefer to call it bum beach so like the famous image of the old lady or young woman I guess it just comes down to your point of view. Pure turquoise water meeting cliff and sand dunes. Just insanely beautiful.
Heart Bay or Bum beach - you decide.
We fished, swam and the kids played in the dunes. Just a perfect morning. Lachie got his first King George which was awesome, he was thrilled, as was dad. 34cm which was the biggest so far. Dad caught another 32cm fish so we now had four and were pretty confident of catching a couple more back at Sceale Bay in the afternoon to complete the meal.
Whiting King does it again!
Heart Bay Rosie Castle
We reluctantly left Heart Bay to head back to camp for a late lunch. Tummies winning over beauty! We again headed back to Sceale Bay for a couple of hours in the afternoon but unfortunately the tides were only 20cm apart and with such little water movement the fish were just not biting. Oh well, four King George Whiting for entree with sausages and steamed veges for dinner would just have to do. A light crumbing, some lemon and the fish were just beautiful. While KGW was all I was after, the fishing is superb in the area, particularly offshore. Tuna, crayfish, snapper and all manner of pelagics are taken just offshore with warm and cold currents meeting which makes the fishing spectacular. Pete promised to take us out on his boat the next time we come over. I suspect he may say that to many of his campers but I'm going to hold him to it!
Our time at Sceale Bay was almost at an end but it had just one little surprise left for us the next morning. Some wild brumbies chose to join us as we awoke. A pure white with two young male horses. They were small and stocky with their toenails being so long and just snapping off eventually. They were timid at first but the white had no fear and walked right up. Peter later mentioned they actually capture the yearlings and auction them each year. From early days of going for $20 they now command over $4,000!
The loveliest of all was the unicorn...
Winners of the next Golden Slipper?
A magic finish to a magic spot. Completely unspoiled by commercialism, or urbanisation. We will be returning to Sceale Bay as it is truly one of those rare gems that are becoming more rare as the years go on. In fact Pete said there are more structures like the 12 Apostles and London Bridge than the actual 'Great Ocean Road'. The problem is, you can only see them by boat along the rugged coastline!
Our next stop is Fowlers Bay which is further along the beach through Ceduna and Penong. First stop though was Streaky Bay for supplies. As we weren't going too far we drove the Cape Bauer loop which took in Hallys Beach, Whistling Rocks and the Blowholes which were all great to look at. The southern Ocean had some mighty big swells so seeing them crash into the beaches or cliffs was pretty awesome. It was then a relatively short drive to Ceduna which is the official start of the Nullabor Plain. We then drove through Penong which had windmills everywhere and onto Fowlers Bay after another hour.
Fowlers Bay Jetty
Fowlers Bay is most famous during the months of June to November where the Southern Right Whales take up residence in the bay. Unfortunately we were a little early, but on the day we arrived at the caravan park, squid were biting out on the jetty. We didn't have any jigs so we watched with envy as bucket after bucket full of squid was carried back into the camp grounds. We went to the shop and picked up some gear in preparation for tomorrow. Fowlers Bay is literally at the end of a dirt road on the edge of Australia. Next stop Antarctica! It is nestled up against some extremely large sand dunes which stretch for miles. It's almost as if the town is defiantly holding back the sand wave, knowing inevitably it will be swallowed up as it slowly but steadily advances.
The sunrises weren't bad
As is often the case we didn't see the weather forecast for the 30 knot easterly for the next 3 days so no squid. Other than the fishing, Fowlers Bay also has a conservation park with some massive sand dunes, sea lion colony, Scots beach and rugged cliffs to explore in the 4WD.
Getting up the next morning the wind was still blowing strongly so we were hoping a 4WD trip over the other side of the sand dunes may prove a little more protected from the wind. We packed up the car for a full days touring, sand driving and fishing. The track into the conservation park was a little tricky to navigate. It was through a marshland and it was easy to see from some of the bog marks that if you stray too far off the track it could end up sticky. Thankfully we had the HEMA maps app which was brilliant and really helped on a couple of occasions to pick the right fork in the road. We arrived along some rocky headlands with the views east and west spectacular with some very rugged coastline and pristine beaches to see. 4WD tracks cris-crossed the whole area so it's clearly a very popular spot to explore.
After a few kilometres of exploring the cliff top lookouts we picked a rocky track down to Scotts beach which offers about 10km of beach driving down to the large sand dunes with Fowlers Bay on the other side. The sand was soft but the high track in amongst the dunes was relatively easy going. We tried to find a spot out of the wind back in the dunes only to be greeted by the other residents, the flies! Fishing was impossible in the strong breeze. After a couple of hours we'd had enough however just as we were starting to pack up a sea lion popped it's head out of the water only metres from the waters edge so we stared in wonder as it frolicked amongst the waves. Funnily enough as we were driving back along the beach with the tide going out, the sun came out and the wind died down so much we were able to stop for a swim and another fish. The water was still quite warm so it was nice to be able to finish with a swim.
Scotts Beach turned it on in the arvo!
Crystal clear water
Tess hoping a little bit of bacon will come her way...it did
One of the nicer aspects of the park were the resident canine friends that adopt campers during their stay. Tess and Brutus seemed to take a particular liking to the Kearneys. They actually live across the road from the caravan park but spend most of the day in it. Every morning one of them would be curled up at the door to the camper. Or they would accompany us on a trip out onto the jetty to fish. One afternoon Brutus spent the whole time lying at my feet while Lachie and I fished. Apparently they receive birthday cards and the like as they have such a postive impact on campers who stop by.It was nice as we are all still missing Kaspa.
On our last night we met up with a nice couple we originally met in Broken Hill, Chris and Jill. It was nice catching up and hearing about their adventures. We are starting to bump into many familiar faces along the way as you start to move forward in your chosen direction. We had a drink and some nibblies with them that evening while Maria was preparing bolognaise in the Thermomick. Our final night was again, a bit windy, so we hit the road for our trip across the Nullabor!
We were planning to make the trek in one night but not being too phased if it took two. Everything was going fine until about 40km out of Nundroo when BANG. The right back tyre blew and it was quite an effort to bring the car and camper back under control. Tough at 100km/hr and more than a little scary. Thankfully I was able to do so and pull the car over to survey the damage. Wow, the tyre had completely schredded, blown and was nearly off the rim, smoking heavily. We've never seen anything like it.
Blowout! As we found out in Esperence a knife like incision did the damage.
To cut a long story short it took 2 hours to change the tyre. Now I can hear the sniggers from some of you from here but there is a reasonable answer to the time delay. Thank god for the head nets by the way as the flies were the worst we'd experienced. The main reason was that we had a spare Cooper put on the back of the car before we left and the guys that attached it tightened the locking nut on so hard, we couldn't get it off, to the extent that I bent the whole thing. Over to plan B, which was the other spare strapped to the roof. With some effort we got it down, worked out the silly Toyota jack and had it sorted. Anyhow given the delay there was no way we were doing the trip in one night. We still managed to stop at the Head of Bight to see if there were any whales but unfortunately the guide there said they still hadn't started but it could be any day. Not to worry, it was great seeing where the start of those massive cliffs begin. The water is so clear and turquoise here it's just stunning. The Nullabor is in fact quite pretty and very green at the moment. I'm not sure quite what I was expecting, maybe some sort of desolate wasteland with the Nullabor Nymph lurking behind every rock.
Head of Bight
One of the locals checking us out.
At the end was the SA/WA border. WA has some very strict fruit and veg restrictions coming into the state. There is a border patrol and they check every vehicle and made us put up the camper. Luckily we were prepared and had either given away things at Fowlers Bay, turned it into a processed meal (like potato salad) or were ready to declare it at the station. Even the jar of honey had to go!
Another 70km west and we stopped at the roadhouse at Mundrabilla which was empty and looked pretty creepy. After walking inside however we couldn't have been more wrong. Restaurant, bar, beer garden and the owners kids running around it was very nice and at only $20 for the night a bargain. We even had dinner at the restaurant which was very tasty honest food. It was Friday night and locals from all around were descending on the place. The local cray fisherman were celebrating the end of the season. Mundrabilla is also home to one of the 18 holes of the Nullabor Links Golf Course with holes spread over the whole length. The Watering Hole was a nice little 330m par 4 with a slight dogleg left. Not sure where the water bit comes from but we took a couple of snaps anyhow!
Looks just like the picture.
Four!!!
We made an early start the next day and had an event free day thank goodness. We set off early and stopped at Caiguna for lunch then hit the longest stretch of straight road in Australia - 145.6 km. It actually wasn't too bad. We eventually arrived at Balladonia which has a fairly tough 4WD track directly through to Esperance but it had been raining heavily in the area so we really didn't feel like risking the 180km plus track in wet conditions. Thank goodness as we met a couple in Esperance who had heard several vehicles needed to be towed out!
That night we stopped at a rest stop about 70km east of Norseman which is the end of the Nullabor. A quiet and peaceful night and we were headed for Esperance. This is the start of our WA adventure and our home for the next 2.5 months!
